Gucci is entering a new chapter under the leadership of Demna, following the Georgian designer’s appointment as the brand’s Artistic Director. Throughout his first year, Demna has taken the time to understand what “Gucci” should represent through his own creative perspective. This vision has now become much clearer with the unveiling of the Gucci Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Milan, which Demna sees as a full expression of his personal vision for the house.
For Demna, working with Gucci does not mean erasing the brand’s past and starting over. Instead, it means going back to understand Gucci’s foundations before reinterpreting them through his own design language.
Before establishing a new direction, Demna took an in-depth look into Gucci’s history by exploring the Gucci Archive in Florence. His research went beyond clothing and handbags, extending to a wide range of objects that reflect the world of Gucci – from furniture and household items to various objects that have played a role in the brand’s history.
This process allowed him to see that Gucci encompasses a much broader universe than the image associated with the eras of Alessandro Michele or Tom Ford. This broader perspective has become an important foundation for creating Demna’s version of Gucci.
Before arriving at the latest collection, he gradually revealed Gucci’s identity through different stages, from La Famiglia, which reinterpreted key Gucci characters from the past, to the return of the sensual and seductive spirit associated with the Tom Ford era. This eventually led to a collection that Demna felt was the right moment to express “Gucci in his own way” more clearly than ever.
One of Demna’s key ideas is to create a sense that Gucci is a world people want to be part of.
He views Gucci through elements such as luxury, elegance, Italian sophistication, and the spirit of Dolce Vita. However, these elements do not always need to be presented in an overly serious or formal way. They can also be infused with humor, boldness, and a rebellious attitude.
This approach gives Demna’s Gucci a strong sense of desirability, creating an attraction that makes people want to become part of this world. It has become one of the central pillars of his new creative vision for the brand.
Another interesting concept is GucciCore, a term Demna uses to describe the idea of essential pieces that should form the foundation of Gucci.
Rather than focusing solely on statement pieces designed for the runway, Demna wants to create items that can become key wardrobe staples – pieces that customers expect to find in a Gucci store.
One example is the red double-breasted jacket inspired by a peacoat. Demna places great importance on small details, from the proportions of the jacket and the fit of the lapels to the placement and size of the buttons and the overall length of the garment.
This reflects how Gucci under Demna is not looking to rely solely on logos or viral fashion pieces. Instead, the brand is working to establish distinctive shapes and proportions that can become recognizable Gucci signatures over the long term.
One of the elements Demna places particular emphasis on is silhouette.
In the fashion world, a strong silhouette can make a brand’s clothing instantly recognizable without the need for a visible logo. Shape, proportion, and the way a garment sits on the body can become a brand’s own visual language.
Demna therefore wants to create a distinctive Gucci silhouette that allows people to immediately recognize the brand, while also ensuring that it represents something he has never done before in his career.
On the runway at Gucci Spring/Summer 2027 during Milan Fashion Week, this new vision of Gucci has become increasingly clear.
On the menswear side, the collection features oversized tailoring, loafers and tassel slippers, as well as low-rise jeans and Horsebit belts, one of Gucci’s key design codes.
Meanwhile, the womenswear collection combines everything from rugby shirts and suit skirts to pieces inspired by the equestrian world and the allure of Italian femininity. It also brings back the sensuality associated with Gucci in the 1990s and the Tom Ford era, reinterpreted through a contemporary perspective.
Overall, the collection is not a Gucci that remains tied to a single era. Instead, it brings together different chapters of the brand’s history and reconstructs them through Demna’s point of view.
Beyond clothing and design, Demna also places significant emphasis on fit and sizing.
His approach is that clothing should not be designed solely around the proportions of runway models and then simply scaled up or down according to standard sizes. This method can cause the proportions of a garment to change when it is worn by people with different body types.
Gucci is therefore developing a new sizing system that places greater emphasis on different body types, allowing garments to maintain their proportions and design character when worn by people with a variety of body shapes.
Reference: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/gucci-demna-vision-1239264169/
